One of Mexico’s most famous dishes marries the flavors of the country’s native tomatoes and jalapeños with the Mediterranean’s olives, capers and herbs. Yes, those flavors are typically featured with Veracruz’s iconic fish dish (pescado a la veracruzana), but they’re perfect with the rich complexity of beef tongue as well. And for folks unfamiliar with tongue, this is a perfect introduction–something familiar, something new.
There’s a simpler version (lengua entomatada) that leaves out the capers and olives–some market vendors prefer the dish without those more expensive ingredients–so don’t hesitate to take their lead. For that version, I prefer to replace the parsley with a big handful of chopped cilantro.
INGREDIENTS
- 1 beef tongue (most weigh an average of 2 ½ pounds)
- 1 large (8-ounce) white onion, cut into ¼-inch pieces
- 4 to 6 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
- Salt and fresh black pepper
- A handful of hierbas de olor (in Mexico, bay leaves, thyme and marjoram come bundled together), optional
- A 28-ounce can diced tomatoes (preferably fire-roasted), drained
- Hot green chiles to taste (usually 2 or 3 serranos, 1 to 2 jalapeños), stemmed, seeded and deveined if you wish, finely chopped
- 1/2 cup chopped green olives (manzanillos are common in Mexico)
- 1/3 cup capers
- A handful of flatleaf parsley, stems removed, leaves thinly sliced, plus more sliced parsley leaves for serving
- 24 warm corn tortillas
INSTRUCTIONS
Cook and clean the tongue. Lay the tongue in a pressure cooker, add 1 cup water and the onion, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon pepper and the herbs (if using). Lock the lid in place and pressure cook (on high if using a stovetop pressure cooker) for 1 hour. If you have time, let the pressure release naturally (15 to 20 minutes); otherwise, quick-release the pressure and remove the lid. Remove and discard the herbs. Remove the tongue to a cutting board and let cool until handleable. Meanwhile, turn an electric pressure cooker to saute or set a manual pressure cooker over medium-high heat to reduce the broth to about ½ cup (it typically takes about 20 minutes).
While the tongue is still warm, strip off all other skin (you’ll notice that it’s in two layers), then cut off the back 1 inch of the tongue. If it’s a well-trimmed tongue, you won’t feel any gristle in that slice of meat. Otherwise, cut out and discard the gristly parts, then cut what remains of the tongue in pieces that are about ½ inch.
Make the sauce. While the broth is reducing, in a blender jar, combine the tomatoes and green chiles. Pulse to create a very coarse puree. When the broth has reduced (it will look almost like a glaze), add the tomato mixture, olives and capers. Continue to cook (electric pressure cooker on saute, stovetop pressure cooker over medium-high) until the sauce has thickened enough to coat a spoon rather thickly, 10 to 15 minutes more.
Finish and serve. Add the tongue and parsley to the sauce, stir to combine, then cook a few morer minutes. Stir in the parsley, then taste and season with salt if necessary. (Remember: olives and capers will release salt into the sauce!). Scoop into a bowl, sprinkle with parsley and serve with warm tortillas for everyone to make tacos.
No pressure cooker? Over medium to medium-low heat on the stovetop, braise the tongue in a partially covered Dutch oven, with the onions, garlic and herbs in water to cover the tongue by two-thirds. On the stovetop, reduce the cooking liquid as described in the sauce directions above, then add the tomato mixture, cook until thickened, add the tongue and heat through.
Chicken Veracruzano Tacos: Cook 2 pounds of bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs with the onion, garlic, seasonings and 1 cup water as directed above–15 minutes under pressure is enough. Pull off the skin, pull the meat from the bones and cut it into ½-inch pieces. Reduce the broth and finish the dish as described.
