I most associate these spicy, compelling, gimme-just-one-more-bite tacos with Acapulco, though people make them up and down Mexico’s west coast. For optimal deliciousness, they require that you first make a classic red guajillo chile sauce, then emblazon it with a tangy Mexican hot sauce. Butter-cooked shrimp get tossed with the spirited sauce and you’re on your way to some very good eating. The butter-cooking might seem out of context for a dish with a street-food pedigree, but that little refinement was taught to me by a market cook who insisted that butter was necessary to balance the boldness of the sauce. She was brilliant.
INGREDIENTS
- 4 medium-large (about 2 ounces) dried guajillo chiles, stemmed, seeded and torn into flat pieces
- 2 garlic cloves, peeled
- 1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
- 1/4 teaspoon fresh black pepper
- 1/8 teaspoon fresh cumin
- 1 medium (6-ounce) white onion
- 1 cup fish broth, chicken broth or water, plus a little more if needed
- 1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil
- 3 to 4 tablespoons Mexican hot sauce (in Acapulco, many cooks choose Tamazula brand)
- Salt and sugar
- 3 tablespoons butter
- 1 1/2 pounds peeled, medium-small shrimp (ones that are about 50 to a pound)
- About 18 warm corn tortillas
- A few cilantro leaves for garnish
- A couple of limes, cut into wedges
INSTRUCTIONS
Make the sauce. Set a large skillet over medium heat and, when hot, toast the chile pieces a few at a time, pressing them flat with a spatula for a few seconds until they release their aroma and change color slightly, then flipping them over and pressing them down again. Collect the toasted chiles in a small bowl, cover with hot tap water, weight with a plate to keep them submerged, and let rehydrate for 20 to 30 minutes.
Drain the chiles and scoop into a blender jar along with the garlic, oregano, black pepper and cumin. Scoop in ¼ of the onion and measure in 1/3 cup of the broth or water. Blend until smooth. (if you’re not using a high-speed blender, I suggest you press the chile puree through a medium-mesh strainer to remove unblended bits of chile skin.) Heat the oil in a large (4-quart) saucepan over medium-high. When hot, add the chile puree all at once. Stir continuously as the mixture thickens and darkens to the consistency of tomato paste, 3 to 4 minutes.
Finally, stir in the remaining broth or water. Simmer over low heat for about 20 minutes for the flavors to come together - the consistency should be like a thick marinara. Add the Mexican hot sauce: This is always a spicy dish, so add the amount that’s right for you. Taste and season with salt, usually about 1 generous teaspoon. And season with a little sugar (I like about 1 teaspoon) to bring forward the flavor of the guajillos.
Finish the dish and serve. Melt the butter in a very large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring almost continually, until they have mostly turned from translucent to opaque, about 1 minute. Stir in the sauce, bring to a boil and cook a minute or two longer.
Rinse the remaining onion under cold water to get rid of its onion-y bite, then shake off the excess moisture. Scoop the mixture into a warm serving bowl, top with the onion and cilantro and you’re ready to set it on the table with lime wedges for folks to make tacos with the warm tortillas.
