Make the rajas-vegetable mixture. Set a very large (12-inch) skillet over medium-high heat and measure in 2 tablespoons of the oil or bacon drippings. When very hot, add the zucchini or calabacitas and cook, stirring frequently, until it is browned and losing its crunch, about 7 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer it to a plate, leaving behind as much oil as possible. Add the remaining tablespoon of oil and, when hot, add the onion. Cook, stirring frequently, until richly browned but still a little crunchy, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic, stir for a minute, then add the roasted poblanos, corn, crema (or a stand-in) and epazote. Let cook at a rapid simmer until the cream has reduced enough to coat all the vegetables. Stir in the browned zucchini or calabacitas. Taste and season with salt, usually a scant teaspoon.
Serve as a taco filling. Scoop the creamy vegetable mixture into a serving dish, scatter on the crumbled cheese and more epazote or cilantro, and serve with warm tortillas for everyone to make soft tacos.
Serve with roasted chicken thighs. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Oil a metal baking pan (glass ones can’t withstand the broiler heat at the end), a sheet pan with sides or large ovenproof skillet. Lay in the chicken thighs, skin-side up. Sprinkle with salt, flip them over and sprinkle again with salt. Roast in the lower third of the oven for 20 minutes, then flip over the thighs and return to the upper third of the oven for 5 minutes longer. While the chicken is roasting, mix together the agave or honey, Worcestershire and black pepper. Remove the chicken from the oven and turn to broil. Brush or spoon the mixture over the chicken and return to the same shelf in the oven. Broil for 4 or 5 minutes, keeping a close eye on the pan’s contents, until richly browned. Serve with the warm, creamy vegetable mixture and a scattering of herbs.
Serve with pasta. Bring a pot of heavily salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente (according to the directions on the package). Scoop out ½ cup of the pasta-cooking water, then drain the pasta and add it to the warm vegetable mixture. Stir in enough of the reserved water to give the mixture a creamy texture. Stir in half the cheese, scoop into pasta bowls and sprinkle with the remaining cheese and herbs.