I may be overstating this, but it seems to me that pretty much every cook in Mexico can make chilaquiles, those crispy tortilla chips softening in sauce, pretty much at a moment's notice. Like macaroni and cheese, this is comfort food, the kind of dish you want to be able to put on the table whenever people are hungry. Chilaquiles are frequently made with tomato sauce, though it's been my experience that tomatillo sauce is even more common. A red chile- or mole-sauced version, while less known, is very appealing, too.
Chilaquiles are a common almuerzo (brunchy lunch) dish, though they make a perfect light dinner as well. They're rich (like a well-made mac 'n' cheese), so I eat them less frequently than I do, say, grilled chicken tacos. I think they make a great accompaniment to grilled steak, chicken or fish, as well as a meatless main dish with some frijoles refritos and a salad. The skeleton of the dish is simply sauce and crispy tortillas. Typically, they're embellished with a drizzle of crema, a sprinkling of aged queso añejo, and a few coarse shreds of chicken or a fried egg. I like to make them with greens and other vegetables, as well.
The most important part of making good chilaquiles is the chips. My ideal version starts with chips I've fried myself from medium-thick tortillas (see page 79). My second choice is thicker chips from a local tortilla factory (I've found them all over the United States). I've made chilaquiles from Tostitos, though, and you know what? They were passable, as long as I didn't let them sit at all. Because the volume of 8 ounces of tortilla chips varies widely depending on the thickness of the tortilla, weight is the best measurement.
INGREDIENTS
- 8 ounces (10 to 12 cups) corn tortilla chips
- 2 cups Roasted Tomatillo Sauce (recipe linked above)
- 2 cups chicken or vegetable broth
- Leaves from a large sprig of epazote (if you have it)
- Salt
- Dollops of Mexican crema, sour cream, crème fraîche or Greek-style yogurt thinned with a little milk
- A few tablespoons grated Mexican queso añejo or other garnishing cheese such as Romano or Parmesan
- A few slices of white onion
- A handful of cilantro leaves (if I have them)
- 4 eggs, cooked sunny-side up (optional)
INSTRUCTIONS
Measure the Tomatillo Sauce Base and broth into a medium (4-quart) heavy pot (preferably a Dutch oven), then, taste and season based on the saltiness of your broth and chips. When you’re ready to serve, add the epazote and set over medium-high. When the sauce comes to a boil, add the tortilla chips and stir to coat the chips uniformly. Cover the pan (a baking sheet is useful here if a lid isn't at hand), turn off the heat and set the timer for 4 minutes.
When the timer sounds, stir the mixture to distribute the sauce evenly, then divide between 4 warm plates. Dollop on the crema (or one of its stand-ins), sprinkle generously with the cheese, and scatter on the onion and cilantro. Top each plate of chilaquiles with an egg if you like.
