The porky richness and pillowy texture of crispy chicharrón (AKA pork rinds in the States) that has been encouraged to soften in simmering tomatillo sauce ranks high on the list of Mexico’s favorites. When I first moved to central Mexico, I was so taken with the omnipresent meaty, crunch of chicharrón that I ignored any cooked offering. It wasn’t until several years later that I woke up to the luxurious texture that a simple simmer can create. The version I’m offering here enhances that texture with potato and a final crowning of crisp chicharrón. Though it may sound a little over the top, I love to chop up several bacon slices, cook the pieces until crisp, use the fat to cook the sauce, then sprinkle crunchy bacon over the tacos as they’re made.
INGREDIENTS
- 8 ounces (about 4 medium) fresh tomatillos, husked and rinsed
- 1 medium white onion, sliced into ½-inch rounds
- 3 garlic cloves, unpeeled
- Hot green chiles to taste (roughly 1 large serrano or 1 small jalapeño), stemmed
- 2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil
- 4 ounces crisp chicharrón/pork rinds, broken into about 1-inch pieces (about 2 cups) (divided use)
- Salt
- A big handful of cilantro , roughly chopped, plus more for garnish
- About 1/2 cup freshly grated Mexican queso añejo or other garnishing cheese such as Romano or Parmesan
- 12 warm corn tortillas,
INSTRUCTIONS
Make the salsa. On a rimmed baking sheet positioned as close up under the broiler as possible, roast the tomatillos, onion slices, garlic and chile until the tomatillos are blackened and blistered, about 6 minutes. Flip everything over and roast the other side. (Watch the garlic and chile; they may be done before the tomatillos and onion.) Remove the onion to a cutting board. Pull the papery skins off the garlic and put them in a blender or food processor along with the chile and tomatillos (and any juices). Add ⅔ cup water and process to a coarse puree. Taste and season with salt, usually a generous ½ teaspoon. Chop the onion into ½-inch bits.
Cook the potatoes. Scoop the potatoes into a microwave-safe bowl, splash with a couple tablespoons of water, sprinkle generously with salt, cover and microwave for 4 minutes, until tender. (If covering with plastic wrap, make a few holes to release steam. Without a microwave, simply blanch the potatoes in salted water.) Drain the potatoes.
Finish the dish. In a 4-quart saucepan, heat the oil over medium. When hot, add the tomatillo puree, stir for a minute or so, then add the drained potatoes, ⅔ of the chicharrón (save the rest for garnish), and the chopped onion. Partially cover and simmer over medium to medium-low until the chicharrón is completely soft, 15 to 20 minutes. Taste and season with salt, usually about ½ teaspoon, depending on the saltiness of the chicharrón. Stir in the cilantro.
Serve. Chop the remaining chicharrón into small pieces. Scoop the mixture into a warm serving bowl and set out with chicharrón, the cheese, another handful of cilantro leaves and warm tortillas. Invite everyone to make their soft tacos from these beautiful tastes and textures.
