notes from the mexican kitchen
It's the season/

Ramps are here. Let’s make them stay.

Ramps

Here’s a dirty secret of the food world: Ramps aren’t actually that special. They’re wild leeks (though these days they’re also cultivated), and while, sure, they taste really good (like a slightly sweet, garlicky spring onion), it’s not the ramps themselves that everybody freaks out about—it’s what the ramps symbolize. And what they symbolize is […]

Lookbook/

Xoco’s new menu is overflowing with spring

Purple Asparagus Salad

There’s so much spring in Xoco’s new menu. Where do we even begin? Let’s start with the caldo: a lemongrass broth with woodland mushrooms and oyster mushroom chicharron (what, you thought only pig skin could fry?) Even springier: the salad, with purple asparagus, pea shoots and special fried balls of our housemade queso fresco. Finally, there’s the new […]

Make the Menu/

Cook Topolobampo’s chilaquiles for dinner (or breakfast, or lunch) tonight

Chilaquiles8

We can think of many words to describe chilaquiles. “Sophisticated” is not necessarily one of them. But when we saw what Julio DeLeon, a cook at Topolobampo, is doing with chilaquiles on the new lunch menu (that’s his dish pictured above), “sophisticated” is exactly the word that came to mind. There’s nothing rustic, nothing “artfully messy,” about […]