In a broad sense, Yucatan’s castacán is a carnitas variation made with an inch-thick slab of skin-on pork belly. When you’re in Merida, say, and step into the shops specializing in chicharra–that nearly endless variety of pork cooked in its own fat to a host of different textures–the castacán is always featured because of its meatiness and crispness of the skin.
To make castacán at home, you first have to locate the skin-on pork belly and some fresh-rendered pork lard (a butcher shop, some Mexican and Asian markets). After that it’s easy: a slow “confit,” then a hot, quick fry. Chopped up and mixed with a variety of crunchy vegetables (this mixture is often called salpicón, made like pico de gallo with a little cabbage, radish and habanero), and seasoned with sour orange juice or lime, castacán simply makes a joyous taco.
I’m directing you to use the full thickness of pork belly, rather than directing you to cut it in thinner slabs. The added thickness means a little longer cooking time, but you don’t have to figure out another use for the part without the skin.
Serve castacán warm (it’s best eaten shortly after it comes out of the fat) or at room temperature.
INGREDIENTS
- 1 1/2 pounds pork belly with skin
- Salt
- About 4 cups (2 pounds) fresh-rendered pork lard
- 6 ounces (1 medium-large, 2 medium plum)ripe tomatoes, cut into ¼-inch pieces
- 1/2 medium (3 ounces) red onion, cut into ¼-inch pieces and rinsed
- ½ to 1 habanero chile, stemmed, seeded if you wish, finely chopped
- 3 or 4 large radishes, chopped into very small pieces
- 1 packed cup finely chopped cabbage (I like napa)
- About 1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro
- 2 or 3 tablespoons fresh sour orange or lime juice
- About 1 packed cup crumbled chicharrón (optional)
- 1 large ripe avocado, flesh scooped from the skin, cut into pieces smaller than ½ inch
- 20 warm corn tortillas
INSTRUCTIONS
Prepare the pork belly. Score the skin-side of the pork belly in a ½-inch cross-hatch pattern about ¼ inch deep. Cut the belly into 2 or 3 workable pieces. Season all sides generously with salt and refrigerate for at least an hour, up to overnight.
Cook the pork belly. Melt the lard in a 4-quart (about 8-inch diameter) heavy pot over medium heat. When melted, slide in the pork belly, making sure that it’s completely submerged. Simmer in the fat until completely tender, about 1 ½ hours, adjusting the temperature if necessary to keep it about 250 degrees and ensure that the pork belly doesn’t brown past a light golden.
Remove the pork belly from the pot and increase the temperature to medium-high. When the fat is very hot (about 370 degrees), carefully slide the pork belly back into the pan and fry until the skin bubbles up and the pork is richly golden, about 5 minutes.
Cool and cut into ½-inch pieces and sprinkle with salt.
Finish the dish. In a large bowl, combine the tomato, onion, chile, radishes, cabbage and cilantro. Taste and season highly with citrus juice and salt, usually a generous teaspoon. Mix in the pork belly and scoop into a serving bowl. Serve with avocado, crumbled chicharron (if using), and warm tortillas for everyone to make tacos.
