Though to most everyone north of the Rio Grande/Rio Bravo, the word quesadilla immediately conjures thoughts of crispy flour tortillas with an oozy cheese filling, many in Mexico–especially around Mexico City–think quesadilla means corn tortilla dough folded over any number of fillings, sealed up tightly and slid into hot oil to brown and crisp.
While you can find these quesadillas fritas at corner stalls throughout central Mexico, when I lived in Mexico City (and to this day, when I return), the small prepared foods market in Coyocan is a must-stop. Sidle up to one of the stalls, choose the corn mushroom called huitlacoche or shredded chicken tinga or green chile-potato or just cheese, watch them press out the corn masa and fill it, then wait in anticipation while the hot oil transforms your turnover into pure, crunchy satisfaction.
Note: if you're using dried masa harina, we recommend Masienda.
INGREDIENTS
- 1 pound fresh ground corn masa - OR - 1 ¾ cups dried masa harina mixed with 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons hot tap water
- 2 rounded tablespoons fresh-rendered pork lard or vegetable shortening
- 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
- 12 ounces shredded Mexican melting cheese (like Chihuahua, asadero or quesadilla) or Monterey jack, Colby or mild cheddar)
- 12 epazote leaves (if you have them)
- Oil to a depth of 1 inch for frying
- A generous cup of salsa (I love Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa)
INSTRUCTIONS
Make the dough. In a large bowl, combine the fresh or reconstituted masa with the lard or shortening, flour, salt and baking powder, kneading everything together until thoroughly combined. The dough should be the consistency of soft cookie dough; if it is stiffer than that (say, more the consistency of Play-Doh), work in a little water.
Form the quesadillas. Divide the dough into 12 pieces and roll each into a ball. Divide the cheese into 12 portions, then press each one into small plump football shape about 3 inches long. Using a tortilla press lined with two rounds of plastic, one by one gently press the balls of dough into about a 5 inch circle, remove the top piece of plastic, lay a portion of cheese in the center, top with a leaf of epazote, then pull up the sides of the tortilla to completely cover the cheese. Pinch the seam tightly to ensure the cheese is thoroughly encased. As the quesadillas are formed, place them on a sheet tray and keep covered with plastic.
Fry the quesadillas. Heat the oil in a heavy skillet or small Dutch oven until it shimmers or registers 360 degrees on a thermometer. In batches, fry the quesadillas until bubbly-crusted and golden underneath, then flip them and brown the other side, about 5 minutes total (depending on the temperature of your oil.) Drain on paper towels, sprinkle with salt and keep warm in a low oven until all are fried. Serve right away with salsa.
