Pork-and-Fruit Stuffed Chiles in White Walnut Sauce
Chiles en Nogada
Makes 4 large servings or 8 small ones, with 6 cups of filling and 2 generous cups of sauce.
From Season 3 of Mexico - One Plate at a Time
Walnuts for the sauce
2 cups (7 ounces) walnut halves and pieces, you’ll need 36 (about 1 pound) very fresh walnuts in their shells
OR 48 mature-green walnuts with fruit still attached (about 4 pounds)
Chiles and Pork-and-Fruit Stuffing
1 pound boneless pork shoulder, cut into 2-inch cubes
2 large garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1 small white onion, diced
8 very large (about 2 pounds) fresh poblano chiles, choose good-looking chiles with their stems intact if possible
3 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 generous tablespoons raisins
2 generous tablespoons dried mango, candied biznaga cactus or citron, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 small pear, peeled, cored and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 small Jonathan or McIntosh apple, peeled, cored and cut into 1/4-inch dice
2 medium fresh peaches (or extra pears or apples), peeled, pitted and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 ripe, medium-small tomato, seeded and roughly chopped
1 teaspoon dried marjoram
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, preferably freshly ground Mexican canela
Salt, about 1 generous teaspoon
1/3 cup (about 1 3/4 ounces) silvered blanched almonds
1 ripe, medium-size plantain, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
Walnut Sauce
1 to 1 1/2 cups milk
1 slice firm white bread, crusts removed
1 tablespoon sugar
Salt, about 1/2 generous teaspoon
1 teaspoon dry sherry
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon, preferable freshly ground Mexican canela
1/2 cup heavy (whipping) cream or Mexican crema
Garnish
1 pomegranate
8 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
1. Peel the walnuts. If using mature-green walnuts, break away
the soft, green, outer layer with your hands. Working with 5 or 6 at a
time, crack open the nuts, remove the meats in the largest pieces
possible. Drop the walnut pieces into a small pan of boiling water,
immediately remove with a slotted spoon to a paper towel, then peel:
the thin, brown skin that covers each piece will peel off in fairly
large pieces if the nuts are very fresh; use a small pick or pointed
trussing needle to help lift the skin out of the crevices. Continue
until all are peeled. Store the nuts in a tightly-sealed jar,
refrigerated, until ready to use.
2. Cook and shred the meat. Place the pork in a medium
saucepan, cover with heavily salted water, add the garlic and half of
the onion. Bring to a gentle boil over medium heat, skim off any
grayish foam that rises to the surface, partially cover and simmer over
medium-low until the meat is thoroughly tender, about 1 1/2 hours.
If time permits, let the meat cool in the broth, then remove it with
tongs or a slotted spoon and shred it between you fingers or with two
forks held back to back. (There will be about 2 cups of meat). Reserve
the broth.
3. Roast the chiles. The open flame method: Place chiles directly
over the gas flame or on a medium hot charcoal or gas grill. Roast,
turning occasionally, until blistered and blackened on all sides but
not soft, about 5 minutes. The broiler method: Lay chiles on a baking
sheet set about 4 inches below a preheated broiler. Roast, turning
occasionally until blistered and blackened on all sides but not soft,
about 10 minutes. Peel the charred skin off the chiles and rinse them
if necessary. Make a long slit in the side of each chile and carefully
remove the seeds and veins.
4. The stuffing. Before you start cooking, complete all the initial
peeling, coring, chopping and so forth of the stuffing ingredients (a
little oxidizing of the apples and pears won’t spoil the appearance of
the dish.)
Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons of the oil in a very large (12 inch) skillet
over medium-high. When quite hot, add the remaining half of the onion
and shredded pork in a thin layer and cook, stirring frequently, until
the mixture is lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain off any excess
fat.
Stir in the raisins, candied fruit, pear, apple, peach, the tomato,
herbs and cinnamon. Measure in 1/4 cup of the reserved broth, mix well,
reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the skillet and simmer until the
apple and pear are tender (but not mushy) and the flavors are blended,
about 10 minutes. Season with salt, usually a generous teaspoon.
While the meat mixture is simmering, heat the remaining 2
tablespoons of oil in a medium-small skillet over medium heat. Add the
almonds and fry, stirring nearly constantly, until they are a deep
golden color, about 3 minutes; remove with a slotted spoon and cool.
Add the diced plantain to the skillet and stir it frequently until
nicely browned and sweet, 3 or 4 minutes. Add to the meat mixture along
with the almonds. Remove the filling from the heat and let cool
uncovered. (There will be about 6 cups).
5. Stuff the chiles. Stuff the chiles with cooled filling,
packing it in well and re-forming them in their original shape. Place
on a baking sheet and cover with foil.
6. Complete the sauce. Within a couple of hours of serving,
prepare the sauce. Put the peeled walnuts into a blender jar along with
1 cup of milk, the bread, sugar, salt, sherry and ground cinnamon.
Blend until a drop of the puree no longer feels gritty when rubbed
between your fingers (this will be more successful with the
mature-green walnuts); if the mixture should clog in the machine or if
only the mixture at the bottom is moving through the blades, add more
milk a little at a time, until all the mixture is moving through the
blades again. Finally add the cream and blend for just a few seconds;
add additional milk if necessary to achieve a medium consistency. Taste
for salt and sugar; the sauce should have a slightly sweet edge with
just enough salt to bring up the flavor of the walnuts. Set aside at
room temperature.
7. Finish the dish. Half an hour before serving, place the chiles
in a 250-degree oven to heat through. Break the pomegranate apart, pick
out all the seeds and place them in a small dish.
When you are ready to serve, add a little mike or cream to the sauce
if it is thicker than a medium-consistency custard sauce. Place 1 or 2
chiles (depending on how you have chosen to serve them) on each warm
dinner plate. Spoon the room-temperature sauce over the warm chiles,
generously covering them half away from the stem. Sprinkle the sauce
generously with the pomegranate seeds, garnish with the parsley, and
serve at once.
COOK’S NOTES:
Techniques: Preparing chiles for stuffing: Since the flavors
are more delicate here, it is best to devein the chiles to insure they
won’t be too hot. If you suspect that they are hot, soak them in salted
water overnight.
Timing and advance preparation: Start a day or so ahead, peeling the
walnuts (allow 1 1/2 to 2 hours); they will keep for a couple days in
the refrigerator tightly wrapped. Finishing the dish will require a
little less than 2 hours. The chiles may be prepared and the stuffing
made a couple of days in advance; store them separately, covered and
refrigerated. Complete Steps 5 through 7 shortly before serving; the
sauce can gray if prepared too far ahead.